Sunny Winter Surf

Winter can be the best part of the year for kayak surfing on the Atlantic coast of Donegal, below is some footage from a November kayak surf at a completely deserted Dooey beach. Not only is the sun shining but the water temperature is pretty good and some nice waves coming into the beach.


Donegal Sea Arches.


Hole on the horizon along the Donegal coastline.

The west Donegal coastline is full of holes. Most are in the form of caves and sea arches (not to mention a few tunnels thrown in for good measure). Take the sea arches; there are a lot of them dotted around the coast and islands of Donegal. Hundreds in fact that are  fairly undocumented, with only a few being in any way known about. I’m just scratching the surface here by pointing out some of my favourites that I have come across on my travels. Most are coastal and attached to the mainland or islands, but there are also lots of free standing sea arches as well. Let’s start with a few Donegal Island arches.

In no particular order:

1. Oileán Glas is an island that sits of the SW side of Arranmore Island. It is steep sided and its SE corner is cut by a huge deep archway that brings you through the island and out the other side to the open Atlantic: amazing! In fact Arranmore has a lot of arches and I will go into more detail in an upcoming overview of the island.


Oileán Glas which sits of the back of Arranmore Island this archway cuts right through the island


The cauldron and it’s archway on Umfin.


  2. Off the coast of Gweedore, amongst the Islands, is the gem of Umfin Island. At the back of Umfin is the Cauldron, a barren rocky area of cliffs and ledges where the Atlantic gets seriously churned up in any swell. The breakers are swallowed up by the high, narrow, archway which juts out into the ocean. It’s easy to walk out to this archway and stand on its summit. At the top of the arch there is a hole, conveniently placed to allow a glimpse at the churning water below. Umfin is also almost cut in two by another lovely archway near the rocky landing spot; so walking across this archway can link one side of the island to the other.

3. Tory Island has some mammoth archways one of which cuts through the Anvil, which is a long finger of rock that juts out from Tory Island close to its north eastern tip. Dramatically situated and purely formed, it’s like a gateway to the island’s rugged northern side. For paddling through this archway you need to get your tides right as it dries out on low water!


The Anvil archway on Tory Island is the gateway to it’s northern side.

4. Owey Island’s big archway is a stunner and is nestled on the Islands eastern side in a small shallow bay surrounded by  rock pinnacles and sea stacks. One of these sea stacks has an ancient face on it that looks out  towards the mainland, always watching Errigal mountain in the distance. If approached from the south the arch is hidden from view until the last minute.


The Owey Island arch



The tall arch on Inishdooey.


5. The magical Inishdooey Island, is the middle Island passed on the way out to Tory from Magheroarty on the ferry. Inishdooey has a fine, tall, narrow, and elegant hidden archway that is tucked into a cut on its eastern side; although it can be quite hard to find from the sea. It can be tricky to get through, especially at low water or in any swell. The Island is also home to an amazing huge collapsed cave which resembles a amphitheater, open to the sky (pictured in the previous blog post). A must visit Island.







6. At Glencolmcille, just north of the signal tower on Glen Head, sits the Sphinx arch; located in a sublime bay of grey and green cliffs. It’s a many faced god and takes on different guises when approached from different angles. It can take on the appearance of a cat-like creature ready to pounce on it’s prey, especially when approached from the south close to the cliffs.


The many faced god. Sphinx arch Glen Head


Hornhead sc

The dark and foreboding Horn Head short cut

7.  Horn Head is an amazing place to paddle with many fine arches and caves. My favourite is an arch-come cave which cuts off the last corner of the journey before the Horn Head bay. It takes you out into a deep, dark cut with a big cave opening on its opposite side; you feel as if you are hemmed in on all sides by towering cliffs: sublime!





8. Crohy Head has an iconic freestanding arch which has appeared in many a dreamlike photograph. It’s set in a bay strewn with boulders and rocks in a super shallow area. It’s complemented by a huge double archway only a short distance away which is an added bonus.

James Bristi stack (3)

Crohy Head freestanding arch

9. The Doorway Arch is situated due south of Loughros Point, part of a small island with a square archway at the entrance to an enchanted bay. It’s the southern entrance to the Slieve tooey coastline which is a mecca for sea kayakers in Donegal. We always say that this doorway leads into another world resembling something out of the Lord of the Rings films.



The Doorway to another world



10. The Transformer and the Guillotine are both situated along the Slieve tooey coastline – the stretch of coast between Loughros Point and An Port. Slieve tooey has more sea arches, sea stacks, caves and waterfalls then you can shake a stick at. One of the many archways along this cliff-bound coast that always catches my attention, is the Transformer arch. You can see the resemblance to a transformer from the picture. Also pictured is the Guillotine arch (you can see where it gets its name from the picture). Remember please, don’t show too much neck when passing through the Guillotine!           


Watch your head going through the Guillotine arch


The iconic Transformer arch along the Slievetooey coastline.

Kayaking the Unseen Donegal Coastline.


Waterfall and caves along Slivetooey

Donegal has many miles of coastline some of which is fairly remote and challenging. West coast weather can also be unpredictable at the best of times so a good understanding on how the current weather conditions will affect the sea is the key to planning any trip. Sometimes those big headlands can do us a favour if for instance the wind and swell are from the north, you could hide out over at Slieve League or into Donegal Bay. If the conditions are from the south, head north to Horn Head and beyond, it can work within reason!


Ruined waterfront houses on Inishkeeragh island

Donegal also has it’s fair share of islands. They come in all shapes and sizes some of them are populated but there are many that are uninhabited or only have a fleeting summer population. Sometimes landing onto one of the these islands is like stepping back in time as most island houses have been renovated as opposed to being newly built and still have most of their original features an example being a cottage on Owey Island which can be rented out but which has no mains water or electricity and only an outside toilet and bath at the top of a field! Most other islands have been left to the elements and their houses ruins with only shadows of what island life would have been like in days gone by. Another island example is Inishdoey on the way out to Tory Island which has some amazing ruins of a monastic 6th century settlement of Saint Dubhtach.


Sea arch at An Port

Paddling the Donegal islands and coastline also brings you into contact with its varied wildlife mainly seals, dolphins, basking sharks, porpoises, otters and plenty of sea birds. We also mustn’t forget that at low water opens up a world of small sea creatures and I have paddled many times into crystal clear sea caves and channels lined with starfish, sea anemones and urchins clinging to the rocky shelves. Many areas of the Donegal coastline are dominated by high cliffs such as Slieve League (one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe) these sections of coastline have been inundated with caves of all sizes, depths and noise levels. There are also hundreds of sea arches carved out by the unforgiving ocean again ranging in size and statue from the extremely narrow to the gigantically huge. Some of the best examples to be found are the Doorway arch the ‘Transformer’ and ‘La Guillotine’ besides many more  stretched out along the remote and stunning Slievetooey coastline. If you are up for a challenge and are brave enough there are a couple of islands that you can paddle right through such as Oilean Glass off Arranmore Island and the stunning Umphin Island located off the Gweedore mainland. The through cave on Umphin is called Uaimh tonn  which translates as the ‘wave cave’ which gives you some idea of what you’re up against. If you happen to be paddling after heavy rain waterfalls appear that drop down to the sea in curtains of water from the heights above that you would never get to see otherwise.


The Amphitheater on Inishdooey Island

If you are not blessed with kind settled conditions there are still lots of great paddling to be found in more sheltered spots such as the fjord like bays of Swilly and Mulroy or another good bet the archipelago of islands around Burtonport. Whatever levels of fitness and time you have on offer there are plenty of options for you to experience and explore.     


Sea sky and sun in Donegal.

Happy exploration!

Owey Island Cottage hostel for rentals contact Niall 087 7129343

First blog post

Unseen Donegal


Think you have seen all the best bits of Donegal, have you visited the top 10 best places in the county all the hidden gems the secret spots that the tourist media and all the Instagram and Facebook pages keep telling us about.

I dont think so.

I have been exploring the Donegal coastline for nearly 20 years by land and sea, There are still places out there that have only been seen by a handful of people, places that even have yet to appear in photographs.

How come we don’t see them. Well thats mainly due to them being in some cases fairly remote, hard to get to, poor access ( big cliffs and stuff ) and the weather plays a big part in being able to get to them.

I still think it’s worth having a look at them even if you are never able to get to them yourself.


Remote lunch spot along Slieve League.